Legodac
Failed
X Banned Members
Inventor
MLNO Reputation -10
 Offline
Gender: 
Awards:   
Team: No Team
Purpose: Well, to bring you Lego news  my own Lego Store, then perhaps being the 9th Lego Pro, then if there is enough money, I may bring Stanley Home
Posts: 3652
AND ONE BOWL OF VEGGIE BEEF SOUP, TO FEED THEM ALL
 Badges: (View All)  
|
 |
« Reply #20 on: September 21, 2009, 09:24:13 am » |
|
Ok.. could dig into more with the basics and then to the homework, to bring that knowledge to implement it.
You're procrastinating, NP, let's continue with wire and cable, Oh btw, WTDB Wire and cable?
We have an endless amount of types and guages and conductor amount of wires in this Trade...
Low Voltage Wire (low voltage is 50 V. A/C to 750 volts A/c)
14/2 good for 15 amps maximum load capacity ( load to 80% only unless your're using aluminium, in which case only 70% is allowed) 2 conductors a neutral and a bare ground wire. Sheath is optional aswell.
14/3 15 MLC (loading allways applies to 80% copper and 70% ALU) 3 cond. 2- line and one neutral, great for kitchen splits and 3- way switching.
14/4 less common, never used it yet unless in speaker wire with stranded copper
12/2, the white wire acts as a line too, when hooking upm a water heater, usually 240 volt 20 amp, 16 is your max here, always read the nameplate to know what you're hooking up
12/3 NMW/U is a common direct burial for backyard wiring
10/3 feeds your dryer, that's a 30 amp wire with a neutral aswell and a 12 guage, for a ground
8/3 stranded feeds your 40 amp stove
14/2 feeds your fridge and it has a breaker all to itself... |
|
|
|
|
